Rudder – Part 1

The first few steps for the Rudder are cutting a bunch of parts and cleaning them up.  Once again I’m probably overthinking it, but I’m spending a lot of time cleaning up each part and removing any sharp edges.

My bandsaw wasn’t large enough for me to cut some of the parts, so I ended up using the left and right aviation snips.  Honestly they work fine and after using the belt sander to clean off the edges (and square them up), all the parts look great.  To deburr the edges, I finally broke out the 6″ scotchbright wheel on my bench grinder.  After mixed success using it for my practice project, I finally decided to remove the “safety cage” to give me better access to the wheel with those long parts.  I’m sure this isn’t the best way to use the bench grinder, but it works for me.

After getting the kids to bed, another 1.5 hours working on page 7-4, Steps 1-3.  Didn’t have enough time to start deburring and cleaning up the rudder spar, so I’ll have to work on that tomorrow.  All in all good progress today!

Vertical Stabilizer – Part 3

Today I got as far as I could with the Vertical Stabilizer.  Started off with some help from my daughter riveting the first few pieces of the rear spar.  Below is a timelapse of me incorrectly attaching the rudder stops to both hinge brackets.  In my joy and excitement, I once again though I knew what was being asked, but I didn’t think it through.  I ended up drilling it all out and fixing it later.  I was happy to have my daughter helping me out so wanted to share.  (For those that are curious, the rudder stops should only be attached to ONE hinge bracket, not riveted between both of them.  I knew the rivets didn’t look long enough)

One of the changes I was looking to do was to add a conduit to the top of my Vertical Stabilizer so I can add in a camera.  (Details to come as I start to bench test some ideas).  Based on posts by both Mouser and Damazio, I don’t feel like what I’m trying to do is really “off the wall”.

I fabricated and installed my doubler plate, and went ahead and drilled a hole for a single conduit to the top of the VS.  At first I was thinking of getting fancy connectors and buying more stuff, but decided that simple (and lighter) was the way to go.  Funny enough my order of conduit from VANS arrived just as I was starting to do my final assembly so I was able to verify that I did everything right.  Only thing that I’m currently waiting for is the Panduit Lightening hole mounts so I can start putting the skin on.

At this point I have my skeleton clecoed together and rivets installed where indicated in the directions.  Next weekend I’ll be able to install the Panduit mounts and start putting the skin on.  Until then, it’s on to the Rudder.

Timelapse:

 

Vertical Stabilizer – Part 2 (Primer)

So I made a decision that I wanted to prime all of my interior parts with AKZO.  I understand that primer is one of those “holy war” things, so I’m not looking to convince anyone that my way is the best, or that primer is even necessary.  With that said, I did today I spend the day getting all everything done that I could in short of dimpling or riveting.  (in some cases, this required me to “skip” some steps until I did my primer.)

I spent most of Thursday  finishing all of the match drilling, counter sinking, and deburring.  This set me up to start the process of putting primer on all the parts on Friday.  I used a Harbor Freight HPLV gun with the 3M PPS system.  This (in theory) should make life a little easier and clean-up a snap.  I also have a Primer Pistol that I slightly modified for smaller jobs.

I first went over all the parts with my ScotchBright pads to remove the Oxide layer and to “scuff” up the surfaces.  This was really a light scuff .  Next, I then mixed up my paint in the 3M cup (1:1 ratio and used the #2 line).  Once measured and mixed, I let it stand for 30 mins per the AKZO recommendations.

I then put on my gloves and got out the Acetone to clean off all the dust / dirt / oil.  By the time I was done, the pait was just about ready.

I just laid down some cardboard and used it to spray on.  All in all, it worked well, however I did run out of paint.  Doh!  Instead of using another 3M cup, I just pulled out my Primer Pistol and used a small film canister to mix a small batch.  This was perfect and allowed me to finish up my primer.

Overall I was pretty happy with the results.  I think I was slightly uneven and need to work on a better way to “hang” my parts up when I paint them to avoid things sticking to the cardboard or missing areas.  Due to the natural light / shade, I was a bit light on some areas, but not terrible.  Finished the day off with dimpling all of the parts and getting ready to rivet the rear spar together.

Getting started – Vertical Stabilizer – Part 1

Today I started the build.  The first few steps consist of cutting the Spar Caps and getting the Vertical Stabilizer Rear spar set assembled.  Match drilling all the holes, deburring, and some countersinks.

Lots of putting pieces together and taking them apart to debur.  I’m probably spending too much time trying to clean up edges and remove all the sharps, but for now I’m ok with taking a bit more time to figure out what works best for me.

 

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Delivery and Empennage Inventory

I finally have the first parts of my RV10.  Delivery was pretty uneventful (besides being the last delivery of the day).  Shipping was pretty straightforward and easy.  Got a call from them shortly after the box was picked up from Vans.  Gave me the price for delivery over the phone, confirmed the lift-gate service, and gave me the option of paying by check at the time of delivery or by CC over the phone.  Since I was going to be at Sun N Fun when it arrived in the area, they were ok with delaying delivery until I was home.

Of course the Driver was asking me questions about the box and being pretty social.

Spent about 4.5 hours getting everything out of the crate, and fully inventoried.  As others have said, they really do an amazing job of getting all that stuff into the box.  My crate did it’s job and kept everything safe, even with the shoe prints on the top of the box and a crack on one side.  The only complaint I have is the tape.  I’m not sure what industrial Duct tape they used, but holy cow that stuff has some stick to it.  Granted that’s great for making sure stuff doesn’t move in the box, but I was really hoping to keep all the protective Blue film on most of my skins.  The tape on the other hand didn’t agree with my plans, and a lot of my parts are now missing sections of the protective blue film.  Honestly does it really matter?  I’m eventually going to paint the RV, and will have to scotch bright the whole thing.   Guess not, but I will have to be careful.

Storage of all the parts is not the best.  I really need to clean off more wall space so I can hang some of the skins / parts.  I have just about everything put away for now, but have some concerns of where I’ll hang / put things to get them out of the way as I progress in my build.  Guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

Onward to building.

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