Starting this session off with drilling the holes for the Trim Cable attachment brackets onto the cover plates. Fairly straightforward but always fear that my measurements are just slightly off.
Next I’m deburring the skins of the elevators and begin the cleaning process so I can prime. As discussed in previous videos, I have subscribed to the “Scuff with Scotchbright pats, clean with Acetone, and spray AKZO. Only slightly different approach this time was I didn’t remove any of the blue plastic on the outside of my parts (just deburred with the plastic attached). Honestly this worked just fine for me and I really didn’t see a downside other than having to get the Soldering Iron out later in the process when I went to rivet.
When this was filmed, it was early summer and it was difficult to find a good time to paint due to high heat and storms. I actually dind’t capture it, but I was able to prime all the internal parts of both elevators, but only one set of skins. I was getting to my breaking point in the heat and decided to wait to point the other set of skins when I did the trim tab, so things are “slightly” out of order. I’m also terrible at estimating how much AKZO to mix and tend to run out before I am done. Honestly don’t like the idea of wasting my primer.
After priming was completed, started to dimple all the parts and begin assembly. This did require additional tool purchases such as the Small Diameter Female Dimple die for the nutplates. I know people have their own opinion regarding the substructure dimple dies from Cleaveland Tool, but I continue to use them and like the results. I also decided to purchase a single flute countersink as I was not happy with the results of some of my countersink holes on the elevator. Nothing terrible, but just not as clean as I was expecting.
The last min of this video is me fighting with the dimples on the root rib. I had issues with my blind rivet tool while I was trying to use the Cleaveland tool close quater dimple set. I then used a modified set (as described here) and a C-Clamp with slightly better success.
In the end I probably should have purchased the vice-grip version and saved myself some struggle but either way I got the job done. I have mixed feelings about my pop riveter, however it was the perfect size to allow me to set blind rivets latter in my elevator build without needing to build the little helper tool that Jason Ellis described, so there is that.
Can I ask where did you get and what size single flute countersink bit did you purchase? Do you still like it better? Does it have a pilot on it?
I ended up getting a set of single flute countersinks from cleaveland tool. I still like them better but they can break if you are not careful. Broke the tip off the #40 once accidentally and had to buy a new one.
Thanks, I have not been able to find them on the Cleveland webstore. I guess I will contact them and ask about them. I remember building my RV7 that sometimes the typical countersink cutters would chatter when the material was thin. I would like to eliminate that.
Here is the link to what I purchased: Single Flute Countersink
This did help as I also had some chattering on a few of my countersinks. Granted, that could be due to some of my technique vs the tool, but the single flute lets me pretend I’m better than I really am 🙂
Yeah I found those this morning but something is wrong with that item on their webstore. It won’t let me add one to the cart or select the pilot size. I will give them a ring. Thanks for your help!
Lol, yep looks like they have a broken page. Mobile side seems to work however or just call them.
Thanks for the hint about the mobile site. I was able to order them that way! By the way, I have enjoyed reading your blog!