Aileron – Part 5

With all the components of the left aileron now primed, I can begin the final assembly and prep work. First step is to dimple the ribs, and the part of the skins where the ribs attach. Next I back rivet the ribs to the skins.

Once the skins are prepped, I can cleco the entire aileron together again to fit the trailing edge and get it drilled. I’m also checking to make sure there is no twist or weird waves in the aileron at this stage with a straight edge.

Once the trailing edge has been drilled, I once again disassemble everything. I also double countersink the trailing edge as the final prep step for the ailerons. Then it’s time to begin final assembly.

First step is installing the components into the nose skin. Ribs and counterbalance assembly is installed and riveted into place in the nose skin. Next I install the spar and rivet that to the nose ribs using blind rivets. If I didn’t mention it already, I really like that pneumatic blind rivet puller. So much better than the manual one.

With the nose assembled, I then install the top skin between the nose skin and the spar. For some reason I felt that my bench and the aileron were sitting just a little high for me to reach over the skin to rivet, so I decided to put the work on the floor and bend over it to rivet. Seemed like a good idea, but later my back told me that I was being dumb. Regardless, it worked and I was quickly able to get the top skin riveted into place.

Next up is installing the bottom skin. Same deal as the top skin, but you have to stick your hand between the skins to hold the bucking bar. It’s been a number of years since I have been described as “skinny” or “small” so I’m amazed that I could get my hands in there to correctly hold the bucking bar. (I did have to remove my watch and ring). I’m not going to suggest that every rivet was perfect, but they were within spec.

I then installed the trailing edge and checked that everything looked nice ans straight. Next was to install the blind rivets in the nose into the counterbalance. and to set the rivets between the hinge bracket and spar. These AN470 rivets were a pain and I ended up with a smiley or two. As much as I would love to replace those rivets and do a better job, my fear is trying to remove those rivets in that cramped space would end up doing more damage than good, so they will stay smiley and all.

Last step is to install the trailing edge. I decided to use the VHB tape as well as the cleaveland trailing edge squeezer tool. I clean all the surfaces with acetone, then install the VHB tape on both sides of the trailing edge. I then install the TE and cleco everything together and press the edges together so the VHB tape will help hold.

Next I use the squeezer tool to start setting the TE rivets using the special dies. Pretty easy and looks decent enough. I have a feeling that back riveting will net a better result, but it is what it is. Once the TE is all riveted, I install the last few blind rivets on the edges of the ailerons. With that the aileron is completed and ready to install on the wing.

Ailerons – Part 4

Continuing to assemble the right aileron, I start to rivet the hinge brackets together as I work on the top skin. I then continue to rivet all the ribs and the inboard and outboard brackets to the top skins per the plans.

I then disassemble the counterbalance and begin to attach the counterbalance to the ribs. While not mentioned in the plans, this is SO MUCH EASIER if you just remove the nose ribs from the spar before you begin to attach the counterbalance. This allows much better access with a screwdriver and small wrench.

Next I reassemble the nose section so I can pilot the nose skin to counter balance holes, then up-drill them to #30 to accept the blind rivets. Honestly I feel like I assemble, disassemble way too many times in this project.

Also I realized I dimpled the aileron skins before I should have. Only where the ribs are back-riveted should the skins have been dimpled. Spar and trailing edge should not be dimpled yet. (I’ll remember for the left aileron). Plans are accurate, but sometimes making sure you understand what they are saying can be a challenge. Either way, no big deal and totally was able to work past this bump.

I then completely re-assemble everything to drill the Trailing edge (checking to make sure the aileron is not twisted). Then take it all apart for hopefully the last time. I also left in some footage of me drilling the trailing edge with my drill jig. Easy to do with the drill press and a microstop cage.

I also decide to make cradles for the ailerons to help with assembly. You need to make them for the flaps anyway, so I guess making them early isn’t a bad thing.

With everything finally primed, I am able to start final assembly. I know it was in the flaps update, but I was jumping between flaps and ailerons for the last month. In this timelapse, I open and get to use the blind rivet puller for the first time. I think this was from Aircraft-tool? Not terribly expensive (not rated for cherry max rivets), but seems to work quite well. Highly recommend that you get one from any of the vendors.

The remainder of the assembly is straight forward. Only comment is trying to rivet between the hinge brackets is a pain in the rump. Got it all riveted together, but not getting any awards on those rivets. I did sand down one of my rivet sets a bit to allow it to physically fit in that tight space. Not sure how others did it as it’s really tight.

End of the assembly got lost to the camera gods. I am setting up to back-rivet the TE for the ailerons but guess the gopro lost power.

Flaps – Part 2

With the parts dimpled, and the sub-components riveted together, it was time to begin final assembly of the flap itself. I had read ahead on the plans and realized I needed some new drill bits for the blind rivets. I ordered a #33 jobber bit but didn’t realize I needed a long bit to clear the hinge plates on the nose ribs. Another order submitted for a 6″ bit. While I was at it, I also decided to purchase a close quarters rivet pulling wedge vs fabricating one.

I did have a “manual to implementation” issue with the flaps (Things got lost in translation in my grey matter). I misread / misunderstood the order of operation and ended up blind riveting the bottom skin to the ribs BEFORE I installed the trailing edge. While not the end of the world, it did make the installation of the wedge a bit more difficult than it needed to be. (The flap looks straight so far, but will check and verify against the other flap to make sure.) Worst case is I build a new flap at some point. (wont be the first thing I have to re-order!)

I also had a new tool that I decided to try out – a Trailing Edge squeezer set from cleaveland tool. Instead of setting the double flush rivets with a backrivet plate and a flush set in the rivet gun, you use these angled rivet sets in your squeezer that are aligned with a large safety pin? It’s hard to describe, but it seems to work. Between this new tool and my out-of-order assembly I’m waiting to decide if my flap trailing edge is really as straight as it should be. (I’ll also have some EAA chapter friends give me some feedback).

With everything done, I then press-fit the bushings in the wing side flap brackets (don’t do this unless you are done with the bottom skin), and install the flaps. All look good and I’m excited for another component to be completed. At this point I just want to mark the wings as done (or done for now). Still need to complete the other Flap, finish sealing the tanks, and make a decision on the bottom skins.



Flaps – Part 1

I decided to put the fuselage work off to the side as the next steps will start to take up significant space in my garage. Instead, I am focusing on finishing up the last few items on the Wings as I will need some significant workbench space to complete them.

Before I jump to the flaps, I decided to drill the aileron torque tube endcaps just to knock them off my list. Next on my hit-list are the flaps. I went ahead and began by sorting and marking all of the ribs and components for both sets of Ribs. I then deburred and modified the components based on the plans in the manual.

With everything sorted, I then began to create the different assemblies for both right and left flaps, drilling and deburring as necessary. Once all the sub-components were ready, I then focused on building out one flap at a time due to space constraints.

Assembling and final drilling the flaps was pretty straight-forward with no real surprises. The only gotcha I ran into was I did not own a uni-bit that could drill a 1″ hole to reduce the weight of the FL-1008 Spacer (Page 22-3 Step 3). A quick search of Amazon got one shipped in a few days.

With all the components prepped, I marked the locations of all the parts, then disassembled to prepare for primer. I ended up doing 3 different primer sessions as tried to work around my family schedule, weather, and sanity. Ended up forgetting the spar, only to have to do that by itself, then realized that I only sprayed one of the nose skins. More head slapping than anything else.

With the parts primed, I being to dimple and assemble the components. I start with the hinge brackets and rib assemblies. Then I move on to skins and spar. I had not deburred the side of the skin that wasn’t primed, or some of the edge, so that needed a little attention. Other than that the instructions are straightforward if not time consuming.

Mid Fuselage Bulkhead – Part 3

Finishing up the Mid Fuselage Bulkheads, I continue by locating all the parts for the next bulkheads. I clean up and deburr all the parts on the ScotchBright wheel. Next I start the process of assembling and match drilling all of the holes called out in the plans.

With the improving weather, I was able to finish preparing the final parts for chapter 25 and get them primed without too much fuss. Once the primer has had time to cure, I’m able to begin the final assembly of the last two bulkheads.

Nothing too difficult on the Rear Spar Bulkhead. Just about all of the rivets are easy enough to set (only a few of the rivets on the gussets were slightly difficult to access). The only item that gave me pause was the nutplate holes in the F-1005A spar. Plans had me drill #40 and #19 those holes, but wanted to verify I shouldn’t countersink. Took a few mins of going through the plans to verify – leave them alone for now.

With that done, I move onto the Fuselage Bulkhead assembly. Very straightforward and easy to rivet. (I probably could have used the squeezer, but was already rocking it with the rivet gun at this point.)

With these bulkheads done, I putting them aside and backtracking to the last few items on the wings. Need to finish up the ailerons, flaps, tanks, and mount the pitot mast. Worried if I don’t do these items now, then they will be on the back burner for a long time as space will become an issue. LOTS to do, just need to buckle down while the weather is nice!