Category: Ailerons

With all the components of the left aileron now primed, I can begin the final assembly and prep work. First step is to dimple the ribs, and the part of the skins where the ribs attach. Next I back rivet the ribs to the skins.

Once the skins are prepped, I can cleco the entire aileron together again to fit the trailing edge and get it drilled. I’m also checking to make sure there is no twist or weird waves in the aileron at this stage with a straight edge.

Once the trailing edge has been drilled, I once again disassemble everything. I also double countersink the trailing edge as the final prep step for the ailerons. Then it’s time to begin final assembly.

First step is installing the components into the nose skin. Ribs and counterbalance assembly is installed and riveted into place in the nose skin. Next I install the spar and rivet that to the nose ribs using blind rivets. If I didn’t mention it already, I really like that pneumatic blind rivet puller. So much better than the manual one.

With the nose assembled, I then install the top skin between the nose skin and the spar. For some reason I felt that my bench and the aileron were sitting just a little high for me to reach over the skin to rivet, so I decided to put the work on the floor and bend over it to rivet. Seemed like a good idea, but later my back told me that I was being dumb. Regardless, it worked and I was quickly able to get the top skin riveted into place.

Next up is installing the bottom skin. Same deal as the top skin, but you have to stick your hand between the skins to hold the bucking bar. It’s been a number of years since I have been described as “skinny” or “small” so I’m amazed that I could get my hands in there to correctly hold the bucking bar. (I did have to remove my watch and ring). I’m not going to suggest that every rivet was perfect, but they were within spec.

I then installed the trailing edge and checked that everything looked nice ans straight. Next was to install the blind rivets in the nose into the counterbalance. and to set the rivets between the hinge bracket and spar. These AN470 rivets were a pain and I ended up with a smiley or two. As much as I would love to replace those rivets and do a better job, my fear is trying to remove those rivets in that cramped space would end up doing more damage than good, so they will stay smiley and all.

Last step is to install the trailing edge. I decided to use the VHB tape as well as the cleaveland trailing edge squeezer tool. I clean all the surfaces with acetone, then install the VHB tape on both sides of the trailing edge. I then install the TE and cleco everything together and press the edges together so the VHB tape will help hold.

Next I use the squeezer tool to start setting the TE rivets using the special dies. Pretty easy and looks decent enough. I have a feeling that back riveting will net a better result, but it is what it is. Once the TE is all riveted, I install the last few blind rivets on the edges of the ailerons. With that the aileron is completed and ready to install on the wing.

Continuing to assemble the right aileron, I start to rivet the hinge brackets together as I work on the top skin. I then continue to rivet all the ribs and the inboard and outboard brackets to the top skins per the plans.

I then disassemble the counterbalance and begin to attach the counterbalance to the ribs. While not mentioned in the plans, this is SO MUCH EASIER if you just remove the nose ribs from the spar before you begin to attach the counterbalance. This allows much better access with a screwdriver and small wrench.

Next I reassemble the nose section so I can pilot the nose skin to counter balance holes, then up-drill them to #30 to accept the blind rivets. Honestly I feel like I assemble, disassemble way too many times in this project.

Also I realized I dimpled the aileron skins before I should have. Only where the ribs are back-riveted should the skins have been dimpled. Spar and trailing edge should not be dimpled yet. (I’ll remember for the left aileron). Plans are accurate, but sometimes making sure you understand what they are saying can be a challenge. Either way, no big deal and totally was able to work past this bump.

I then completely re-assemble everything to drill the Trailing edge (checking to make sure the aileron is not twisted). Then take it all apart for hopefully the last time. I also left in some footage of me drilling the trailing edge with my drill jig. Easy to do with the drill press and a microstop cage.

I also decide to make cradles for the ailerons to help with assembly. You need to make them for the flaps anyway, so I guess making them early isn’t a bad thing.

With everything finally primed, I am able to start final assembly. I know it was in the flaps update, but I was jumping between flaps and ailerons for the last month. In this timelapse, I open and get to use the blind rivet puller for the first time. I think this was from Aircraft-tool? Not terribly expensive (not rated for cherry max rivets), but seems to work quite well. Highly recommend that you get one from any of the vendors.

The remainder of the assembly is straight forward. Only comment is trying to rivet between the hinge brackets is a pain in the rump. Got it all riveted together, but not getting any awards on those rivets. I did sand down one of my rivet sets a bit to allow it to physically fit in that tight space. Not sure how others did it as it’s really tight.

End of the assembly got lost to the camera gods. I am setting up to back-rivet the TE for the ailerons but guess the gopro lost power.

Had another marginal weather day that allowed me to prime a handful of parts. With the Fuselage delivery date just a few days away, I stole a little time in the garage after work to get just a little more progress.

I rivet the hinge bracket to the rib and begin to dimple the skins. With that completed, I being to lay out the stiffeners and start to back rivet everything in place. Before I start to rivet the top skin, I go to attach the bottom skin to the spar and realize that this skin is really the right aileron vs the left.

Totally my fault as I was having difficulty “seeing” everything as it went together. Possibly because I had the fuselage on my brain, but with the parts in front of me starting to go together things are making a lot more sense. (When unsure stop and figure it out!)

No big deal, but it also showed that I counter sunk the wrong side of the right hings brackets. Quick call for replacement parts and I’m in another holding pattern. Luckily nothing incorrect was riveted together so I’m still in good shape.

The stars aligned. Between the weather and my schedule I was finally able to get a few parts primed the other day.

With that said, I jumped back to working on my ailerons. I being to assemble the Inboard and Outboard hinge brackets and realize I need to find the MS21055-L3 nutplate. This is a corner nut-plate and you only have 2 of them. Did I ever mention you need to have your parts organized? Honestly I thought I did a good job of this, but still took me way longer than it should have to find these nutplates.

Once located, I rivet the hings brackets together and then can try to final drill the counterbalance. The drawings mention that you may have to use a screwdriver bit using a pair of pliers. I actually try to do this only to get frustrated. Finally have a lightbulb moment and realize I can just uncleco the hinge brackets from the spar to tighten these screws. SO much easier!.

Flip that aileron over, install the nose skin, and match drill the holes into the counterbalance. I then go to the other Aileron where I hadn’t drilled any holes in the counterbalance yet, and I begin to get that counterbalance drilled and marked for where it attaches to the hinge brackets. Ran out of “free time” and had to put it away.

Starting section 21 I start to read through the instructions and pull the parts from storage. The language in section 21 starts to change from how the steps are defined in previous chapters a bit so I wanted to mention how I approached it.

Typically you see instructions to flute ribs, cleco together, match drill, then deburr, dimple and if desired prime. For the ailerons, instructions start with flue, final-drill, and dimple before you assemble anything. As I typically dimple after I prime parts, I’m having to deviate from the order of operation in the plans just a bit. (Not that this is a bad thing as I go on to explain).

Since I want to prime parts, then dimple, I’m “skipping” over the areas where I’m asked to dimple or rivet and assembling all the parts using clecos to ensure I can match/final-drill where necessary and that I have all the parts properly marked / labeled. I basically ended up building the whole aileron using clecos. *Note: cutting, sanding, and deburring all the stiffeners was a bit of a process!

I’m not sure if the change from match drilling to “final-drill” is due to better tolerances in the MFG processes for the skin and stiffeners, but I decided to match drill and label all parts.

With all the ailerons assembled with clecos, match drilled and deburred, now I just have to wait for a decent day to prime before I can start begin final assembly.